Thoro Credit Repair


Frankie Trillz -Thoro Credit Repair Lessons- Lesson 1

As we all are aware in today’s  society, we have a major problem with people who are unable to pay to have their credit repaired.  So I, Frankie Trillz decided to start a FREE Educational blog to provide credit repair guidance to all who seek credit repair knowledge.  This blog will cover these Thoro Credit Repair Lessons:

In Lesson 1 -The foundational terms – Credit Card Holder Bill of Rights -The 3 big Credit Bureaus -Secured and Unsecure Credit – The 5 C to Credit -*MOST IMPORTANT* How I Dispute Original Creditors or Collection Agencies and Why -How I Dispute to the Credit Bureaus and Why -Key Points  Bonus: Sample Letter for Disputing the Credit Bureaus

In Lesson 2 -I will include a cheat Sheet which will allow you to understand how to dispute and why -FREE Annual Credit Report Application -Sample Credit Bureau Dispute Letter for Charge Offs and Outdated Information

In Lesson 3 -Order of Operation for Credit Repair -What You Must Know About Your Credit Cards -Sample Dispute for Medical Collections -Sample 1st Dispute Letter to Collection Agency or Original Creditor  -Sample 2nd Dispute Letter to Collection Agency or Original Creditor -Sample Default Letter -Link to FDCA -Link to FDCPA -Link to HIPPA -Link to FTC

This is a FREE Educational Blog that will teach all of my followers how to dispute their negative accounts on your credit report like me, Frankie Trillz so their credit report look like this:

My Before Credit Repair Report  My After Credit Repair Report  *Now its time to get Tradelines in order to boost my credit score up between 700-800. This will take my FICO scores, credit history, and borrowing capabilities to the next level. This is also the process I use to prepare myself for funding. All this is not discussed in this lesson but you can contact me on my email at for more information.*

I decided to put these Thoro Credit Repair Lessons together to provide some important educational lessons for the everyday person, who can not afford to pay hundreds or thousands of dollars to repair their credit.  I designed this blog with the average working person in mind.  This is one of my ways to give back and educate millions.

This material provided has proven to be very accurate and informative. It is the first step for anyone who desires to repair their credit in order to meet the specific conditions for certain loan criteria or line of credit. This Lesson will provide the reader with the knowledge you’ll need to learn, key terms and some important consumer Bill of Rights.  These lessons will continue to get updated on my blog because I cant give all the goodies in one sitting it will be way too much to digest.  Please take your time and learn 1 lesson at a time. And stay tuned in for the rest of the Thoro’s Credit Repair Lessons because they will help you grow your understanding on how to Thoroughly Credit Repair your credit with Frankie Trillz.

Frankie Trillz

Thoro Credit Repair Lesson #1

Thoro Credit Repair Lesson #1 Information is the starting point, the foundation needed to understand my madness when it comes to credit repair.

The Facts-Foundational Terms – Credit Card Holder Bill of Rights-What Is Credit

FACT #1.  Mid-2008 the U.S. Federal Reserve put new regulations in place to protect consumers from many of the deceptive and unfair practices being used against them.

FACT #2.  Federal Trade Commission (FTC) – Helps protect consumers from unfair business practices. For more information go to (

FACT #3.  Credit Cardholder’s Bill of Rights were signed into law by President Obama in May 2009.  For more information go to (

Here are some of the Credit Cardholder’s Bills of Rights:

  • Statement mailing dates- credit card companies must send statements at least 21 days before the payment due date to ensure consumers have a reasonable amount of time to respond.
  • Allocation of payments- credit card companies must either apply excess payments above the minimum to the highest interest rate principle balance, or spread them proportionately across your different interest rate balances.
  • Increases in interest rates- credit card companies must notify consumers at least 45 days prior to raising their interest rate. Rate changes based on an increase in the underlying index used by the credit card company are not included in this rule.
  • Double-cycle billing- In most instances, this practice will be eliminated.
  • Credit Card and College Students- The new regulations put a number of rules into place that limit the amount of credit that college students can get.

A Few TERMS You Should Know and Understand

  1. Credit Report- An individual’s history of borrowing money, consistency of repayment, employment, and residences.
  2. Credit Score- An estimate of an individual’s likelihood of not repaying a loan. The higher the score, the better.
  3. Fair Isaac Corporation- (FICO Score)- The most widely used credit score calculated by the Fair Isaac Corporation
  4. Health Information Portability and Accountability- (HIPAA)- This Act creates federal legislation that protects consumer’s private health information from misuse and accidental or intentional disclosure, as well as additional guidelines for how and when a consumer may be denied health coverage.
  5. Fair Credit Reporting Act- (FCRA) – This Act promotes the accuracy, fairness, and privacy of information in the files of consumer reporting agencies (including credit bureaus and specialty agencies).
  6. Fair Debt Collection Practice Act- (FDCPA) – This Act was designed to eliminate abusive, deceptive, and unfair debt collection practices. For more information go to (


  • Credit provides an opportunity to buy now and pay over time. For the use of this convenient tool, lenders will charge interest that must be paid in addition to any money (Principal) you may borrow.
  • Credit is a privilege that is offered to you, based on evidence you provide to demonstrate that you will be able to repay what you borrow. A lender will require evidence about these characteristics when you apply for credit.

REMEMBER the 5 C’s of Credit:

  1. Character– Your lender will look for signs of stability and reliability, such as confirmation of employment and proof of regular rent or mortgage payments.
  2. Collateral– A lender may require that a loan be backed up by the value of your personal property, such as your house or your car.
  3. Capacity– Lenders need to confirm that you can repay the amount of the original loan plus the interest on the loan. A steady job that provides dependable income ranks high in importance.
  4. Credit– The amount of credit you already have outstanding and the history of timely payments will be reviewed by the lender. Information about your current or previous credit is listed on your credit report.
  5. Conditions– How you plan to use the loan and the economic environment.

Types of Credit:

  1. Secured Credit: Is credit that is protected and backed by the value of your property (Collateral). *If you fail to repay a secured loan, the lender has the right to posses and sells the collateral to recover what is owed. Because the lender is protected, this type of loan usually carries a lower interest rate than unsecured credit.


  • An automobile loan
  • A mortgage (first)
  • A home equity loan (a second mortgage)
  • Secured credit card
  1. Unsecured Credit: Is a loan not backed by collateral. The risk to the lender is higher is because there is no way to recover a loss if the loan isn’t repaid.  Because it is riskier, the interest rate for an unsecured loan is usually higher than the rate for a secured loan.


  • The most common type is an unsecured credit card

FACT: *Credit Card interest is not tax deductible

Your Credit Report:

-When you use credit or borrow money, your payment history information will be reported to one or more of three national credit bureaus.

-Credit bureaus use this information to create a credit report about you.

*It’s a good idea to check your credit report once a year to make sure the information on it is accurate especially with the identity thief going on now days.  By law, you are entitled to one free credit report every 12 months from the three major credit bureaus.

-Visit the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) website, for your free annual credit report.

-If an error is found, the credit reporting agency must investigate and respond within 30 days.

The Three National Credit Bureaus

  1. Equifax #1-800-685-1111  site-
  2. Experian #1-800-397-3742  site-
  3. TransUnion #1-800-888-4213 site-

*A positive credit report can open doors for you.  A negative credit report can close them.  It’s that simple and that important.*

Frankie Trillz Disputes to Original Creditor or Collection Agency are ALWAYS Base On

(It’s either 1 or more of these issues)

  1. Ask for (POC) Proof of Contract: This is proof of a binding agreement. *The original contract must be provided with your signature and the contract agreement.  Make sure that they get it notarized to be sure it the original and not a fake.  *The point is if the Original Creditor has given your debt to a Collection Agency then the Collection Agency will not have the original contract.  So, they will not be able to prove the debt.
  2. Ask for (PON) Proof of Notification: This is proof that they followed the proper procedures with notifying you. *The procedure for any creditor is to notify the debtor 30 days prior to furnishing derogatory information to the credit reporting agent.  THIS IS APART OF THE (FDCPA) FAIR DEBT COLLECTION PRACTICE ACT

*The proof you want them to prove is that they notified you 30 day prior to furnishing the derogatory information to the credit bureaus.  *This proof you should ask for should be a signature certified mail card with your name on it.  *The point is they will never pay to send your mail signature certified, so they will not be able to prove that they contacted you before furnishing the derogatory information onto your credit file.

  1. Ask for (POD) Proof of Debt: This is proof that the debt has not be written off. *If the has been written off the debt was settled through a tax write off, and should not be collected on. *The point is if the debt was written off it should have been deleted off your credit report.  In most cases, you must dispute the debt with the credit reporting agency once you know it has been written off where you tell them to delete this negative entry.
  2. Ask about (SOL) Statute of Limitation: The lawful time limit to enforce a claim is 7 years in Virginia. It’s different in different states.  *The point is Collection Agencies use false, deceptive, and misleading tactics to keep debts open on your credit report.  They will lie and say they have activity on your account (meaning the contacted you recently), which will start your activity date from that date which they say.  This will start the 7 years over again.  This you will make them prove through the PON!!!

KEY POINT: Don’t ever agree to any debt either on the phone or in a letter.  Always call the debt an alleged debt.

Frankie Trillz Disputes to the Credit Bureaus Are All Based On

  1. You always telling them that an alleged debt is inaccurate, incomplete, invalid, or outdated negative information that has caused you public humiliation and is causing you to be turned down for credit because of the Credit Reporting Agency has allowed this inaccurate, incomplete, invalid, or outdated negative information to be furnished on your credit report. *The point is if you have already got the Collection Agencies to say they are not collecting on the debt, then when the Credit Reporting Agencies do their investigations they will tell them they are not collecting on the debt and then the Credit Reporting Agencies must remove the claims off of your credit report within 30 days.


  • Collection Agencies, Original Creditors, or Credit Bureaus must respond within 30 days of your first letter, and within 15 days of your second letter.
  • You must always use certified mail so that your mail is time stamped for proof. Your replies have the same time table procedures.
  • You must always keep copies of your letters and their letters for your records so you can prove your argument if you ever end up in court.

Read More Then Once

Please read more then once and if you have any question email me at I am leaving an open line of communication because I understand that there are things I left out that I will have to clarify and break  down. I did that because this allows a dialogue between the individual and me, which will increase their chances of understanding the information. I want you to succeed so email me and ask the questions.

I have bless you in Thoro Credit Repair Lesson #1 with my 4 key disputing points for dealing with Original Creditor or Collection Agencies. These 4 Key points are the foundation of all disputes and they are extremely difficult for collection agencies to provide sufficient proof to justify their claim. So please take your time to read them more then once so that you can take in the concept and be able to speak it and use it yourself.

I also provide you with my corner stone reason how to dispute with the 3 credit bureaus.  This is your Free 1st Sample Dispute Letter for Credit Bureau with this blog and I will add a sample dispute letter with each blog so follow me and get them all for FREE!  Remember who cares enough about you to provided you this information, Frankie Trillz.

You can always leave your comments and questions below also. Ok until the next lesson PEACE.


Thoro Credit Repair


Frankie Trillz -Thoro Credit Repair Lessons- Lesson 2

I am back with Lesson 2 of Frankie Trillz, Thoro Credit Repair Lessons. I am here to do my part to solve an issue we have in our society which is people’s inability to afford to pay a credit repair company to repair their credit files.  So, I, Frankie Trillz decided to start a FREE Educational blog to provide credit repair guidance to all who seek credit repair knowledge.  This blog will cover these Thoro Credit Repair Lessons:

In Lesson 1 -The foundational terms – Credit Card Holder Bill of Rights -The 3 big Credit Bureaus -Secured and Unsecure Credit – The 5 C to Credit -*MOST IMPORTANT* How I Dispute Original Creditors or Collection Agencies and Why -How I Dispute to the Credit Bureaus and Why -Key Points Bonus: Sample Letter for Disputing the Credit Bureaus

In Lesson 2 -I will include a cheat Sheet which will allow you to understand how to dispute and why -FREE Annual Credit Report Application -Sample Credit Bureau Dispute Letter for Charge Offs and Outdated Information

In Lesson 3 -Order of Operation for Credit Repair -What You Must Know About Your Credit Cards -Sample Dispute for Medical Collections -Sample 1st Dispute Letter to Collection Agency or Original Creditor -Sample 2nd Dispute Letter to Collection Agency or Original Creditor -Sample Default Letter -Link to FDCA -Link to FDCPA -Link to HIPPA -Link to FTC

As I maintained before this is a FREE Educational Blog that will teach all my followers how to dispute their negative accounts on their credit report like me, Frankie Trillz.

Frankie Trillz – Thoro Credit Repair Lesson 2

FREE Annual Credit Report

Getting and having access to your credit report is the very FIRST step to credit repair. I know you may be thinking like why didn’t I put this in Lesson 1 and I could have but there was a lot to study and learn in Lesson 1 which was designed for preparing you to be able to take this step with confidence to get your credit report right after Lesson 2.  Now there are many companies that offer you this access to your Tri-Merged credit report.

These are some of the main website I use to get either single bureau reports or tri-merged reports. Tri-Merged or all 3 credit bureau reports are what you need to truly have a chance to review all 3 reports to evaluate what is inaccurate or disputable in your reports. These sites above have some cost to them. Ranging from $1 trail periods to $39.95/month fees for credit monitoring which is needed in certain cases.

Thoro Credit Repair Lessons was created with the lease amount of money out of pocket possible so I am introducing you to the FREE Annual Credit Report Application. The FREE Annual Credit Report Application allows for an individual to fill out the identifying information and mail it to the address provided on the application for as low as the cost of 1 postage stamp.

Now with this application down at the bottom of the page there is a box that states I want my credit report from; you must color in all 3 circle so that you can get your credit reports sent from all 3 credit bureaus. This is the FIRST step so download and fill in the information and send off as soon as possible so you can get start working on correcting you credit history on your credit report. You can download the application right now here is the link:

FREE Annual Credit Report Application

Frankie Trillz Cheat Sheet

Frankie Trillz Cheat Sheet is the high light of Thoro Credit Repair Lesson 2.  I say this because this is a quick look inside of the bureaus and the mindset of a credit repair consultant. As you study this information you will start to understand the procedures that will take place with your dispute letters. This will give you a better chance to get your dispute letters in the hands of the right people you need reading your dispute letters. You will also get a better understanding why I dispute the way I do.

Frankie Trillz Cheat Sheet

  1. Whenever disputing to the Credit Bureau always handwrite letters. (The credit bureau disputes letters are separated into two piles; typed boiler plate disputes and authentic looking written original disputes)

*boiler plate disputes are not taken serious and will receive a computer-generated response stating that the account is verified as accurate and they know that 90% of consumers simply give up after they receive this letter.

*original disputes hand written are taken seriously. Not a bunch of ranting and raving about laws, procedures, court rulings and the like. Just short, simple and concise, and seemingly original disputes. The consumer who write his or her own original dispute letter is much more likely to take the process seriously. If the CB believe you will follow up and complain to the Attorney General & FTC. This spells more trouble.

  1. When disputing to Original Creditors or Collection Agencies you can type or hand write letters.
  2. The 3 Big Credit Bureaus Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion use smaller information collection companies to validate negative account alleged debt.  *You must not allow this to happen to you*

*You should tell them to contact the creditor/collection company who are holding this alleged debt directly and to not use a 3rd party company to investigate this matter. And if the person that they speak to verifies the debt tell the credit bureau to please give you the name, phone number, and address of that representative so that you can dispute directly with that person*

  1. Know that the Original Creditors, Collection Agencies, and Credit Bureaus all are banking on you to give up and stopping your disputes/defaulting. * Once you default on a claim you have involuntary accepted claim to that claim unless you dispute the alleged claim*.
  2. Original Creditors and Collection Agencies cannot use deceptive and harassing tactic to force you into a contract.

*they will send invoices, letters, old charts and all type of deceptive trick to trap you into accepting claim to an alleged debt they are attempting to collect on*.

  1. Be aware that lawyers and credit repair companies work with the Collection Agencies to get you to do Satisfaction and Accord/SETTLEMENTS

*They collect and get paid upfront by you and then they get collect and get paid a commission from the Collection Agencies*.  (Percentage of the Settlement)

  1. You will not do any Satisfaction and Accords (Settlements) unless Creditors can provide proof of the debt with a sign agreement and proof they followed the proper procedures.
  2. Always send your disputes Certified Mail to have your proven paper trail. (The advantage with Certified Mail is you know the date your dispute was delivered. The disadvantage is the postage can get expensive.)
  1. Always dispute negative accounts with the creditor FIRST before disputing with the Credit bureau unless it’s an account that the credit bureaus have furnished that is inaccurate, incomplete, invalid, outdate, or unfair.

*I do this because once you have the creditor default or state that they are not collecting on the debt this is the perfect setup for when you write to the credit bureaus and request an investigation and when they contact the creditor as part of their investigation, the creditor will tell them that they are not collecting on the debt which causes the credit bureau to have to delete the account permanently, and in some cases the creditor will make the call and tell them to delete the negative account off of your credit file*.

Click on this Frankie Trillz Cheat Sheet so you can download your Thoro Credit Repair Cheat Sheet .

Sample Credit Bureau Dispute Letters for Charge Off and Outdated Information Accounts

As stated, Frankie Trillz Thoro Credit Repair Lesson 2 will come with 2 more sample dispute letters for disputing with the credit bureaus. These are the sample credit bureau disputes letters for Charge Off and Outdated information accounts.

Sample CB Charge Off Dispute Letter is used to dispute accounts that have already been written off or charged off as unserviceable or bad debt by the original creditor or collection agency for tax purpose. When these type of accounts appear on your credit report, it is important to get the credit bureau to check if the debt is valid, accurate, updated, and complete and if not request that they remove it. To get sample download copy from this link:

Sample CB Charge Off Dispute Letter

Sample CB Outdated Information Dispute Letter is used when an account has pass the laws status of limitation on your account. These type of accounts should have been removed and it haven’t been because sometime if the credit bureau know you don’t monitor you credit file, they don’t bother monitoring it for you either.  The credit bureau will leave the responsibility on you to dispute things that need to be deleted off your credit file.  With outdated information you must be careful with this one because a collection agency will lie and say they contacted you and bump your activity date up making the status of limitation date start over from the date they have stated. This is something you will make them prove which they will not be able to if disputed correctly. To get sample download copy from this link:

Sample CB Outdated Information Dispute Letter

If you notice I have not provided any disputes for collection agencies or original creditor this will all be covered in the next and final lesson.  Remember who cares enough about you to provided you this information,

Frankie Trillz

You can always leave your comments and questions below also.


Thoro Credit Repair

Frankie Trillz -Thoro Credit Repair Lessons- Lesson 3

I am back with lesson 3 which is a very important educational part of these Thoro Credit Repair Lessons. I am here to do my part in solving an issue we have in our society which is people inability to afford to pay a credit repair company to repair their credit files.  So, I, Frankie Trillz decided to start a FREE Educational blog to provide credit repair guidance to all who seek credit repair knowledge.  This blog will cover these Thoro Credit Repair Lessons:

In Lesson 1 -The foundational terms – Credit Card Holder Bill of Rights -The 3 big Credit Bureaus -Secured and Unsecure Credit – The 5 C to Credit -*MOST IMPORTANT* How I Dispute Original Creditors or Collection Agencies and Why -How I Dispute to the Credit Bureaus and Why -Key Points  Bonus: Sample Letter for Disputing the Credit Bureaus

In Lesson 2 -I will include a cheat Sheet which will allow you to understand how to dispute and why -FREE Annual Credit Report Application -Sample Credit Bureau Dispute Letter for Charge Offs and Outdated Information

In Lesson 3 -Order of Operation for Credit Repair -What You Must Know About Your Credit Cards -Sample Dispute for Medical Collections -Sample 1st Dispute Letter to Collection Agency or Original Creditor  -Sample 2nd Dispute Letter to Collection Agency or Original Creditor -Sample Default Letter -Link to FDCA -Link to FDCPA -Link to HIPPA -Link to FTC

As I maintained before this is a FREE Educational Blog that will teach all my followers how to dispute their negative accounts on their credit report like me, Frankie Trillz.

Order of Operation for Credit Repair

I want to first tell you there is no set order of operation for credit repair. There are many ways a person can go about disputing their negative account on their credit report. Most people dispute directly with the credit bureaus. Some dispute with account holder first and some do both. I will show you my order of operation and how I repaired my credit years ago and my process I use when I am consulting with a credit repair client. This is my order of operation which works out perfect for me when I am preparing to go into the dispute process.

  1. I get copy of tri-merged reports  with credit monitoring from one of companies mention is lesson 2.
  2. I then compare and figure out all of the accounts that are on all 3 reports and then I find out all of the accounts that are only on individual reports and document this information.
  3. I go through each report to find inaccurate, incomplete, invalid, or outdated information, also collection accounts, public account, inquiries, and original accounts and document this information.
  4. I go through the personal information to make sure the name, addresses, phone numbers, jobs, Social Security Number, and Date of Birth associated with this account are all correct and document this information.
  5. Once I have all this information organized and documented I can move forward with the dispute process.

Frankie Trillz Dispute Process Order

I will give you the order that I dispute first and then I will tell you why I dispute this way.

  1. I always dispute with the collection agencies or original creditors first. So my first letters are going to these account holders and they are all being sent the on same day.
  2. If there are any inaccurate, incomplete, invalid, or incorrect information furnished by the credit bureaus with the personal information I dispute directly to the credit bureaus and request removal of the incorrect information.
  3. I dispute with collection agencies or original creditors until they cease and desist all collections and reporting to the credit bureaus or until they get the account remove from off all 3 credit reports.
  4. Once collection agency or original creditor cease and desist collections and reporting to the credit bureaus I write to the credit bureaus and request investigation and removal of these accounts.

Now, I will explain why I dispute in this order. One of the main reasons is because I have seen cases where a person has disputed straight with the credit bureaus and the credit bureaus removed the account and the collection agency get it furnished right back up there 1-2 months later. This happened because the collection company update your status monthly and if they have not cease and desist collections and reporting that account will be updated which means furnished back on your report.  I dispute to the collection agencies first so that I will get them to stop reporting the account so that when it is taken off by the credit bureau it is taken off permanently. So I recommend this process over all because I have not had any old accounts show back up on any of my clients reports or my own personal report.

What You Must Know About Your Credit Cards

  1. Which of the Two Methods Do They Use to Charge Interest?
  • 1st– the better way by far for you- is to charge interest on the average daily balance, including new purchases.
  • 2nd-this is much less favorable, is the two-cycle average daily balance, including new purchases. Keep away from this type.
  1. What is the Minimum Percentage That Is Required to Be Paid Every Month?
  • This answer to this will vary from 1.5% of your balance to up to 4%.
  • This figure you want to be higher, rather than lower.
  • Always pay more than the minimum pay each month.
  1. If You Carry a Balance, Is There a Grace Period on New Purchases?
  2. What Is The Cash Advance Fee Charge, and What Interest Rate Applies to Cash Advances?
  • This is where the company can get you big-time. The charge from 2.5% (give or take) of the amount of each cash advance, up to a maximum fee of 20%.
  • Don’t use their convenient checks because they charge fees for them.
  1. Is There an Annual Fee?
  • Only acceptable answer is NO.
  1. Am I Penalized If I Don’t Carry a Balance?
  • Some credit card companies, however, are beginning to sneak in a little extra fee to those customers who don’t carry a balance from one month to the next-The Responsible Customer-.
  • Read all the tiny print every month, watch for any undesirable changes in policy. When you spot one switch cards.
  1. There are Essential Questions to Ask:
  • What is the current interest rate?
  • How long will this rate last?
  • What does the interest rate go up to after the introductory period?
  • *So Many Credit Card Companies are competing for your money that many very low introductory rates are on offer.*
  • *Pay attention and be careful because sometimes the rates for balance transfers and cash advances are higher. And their introductory rate may jump by 10% or more after a few months.*
  • **You want the card with the lowest introductory rate, and the longer the low rate lasts, the better. In any case, you don’t want a card whose normal rate is above 10%.**

To download a copy of this information click this link CreditCardQuestions

Sample Dispute Medical Collections Letter

This is another section of major value! This is my format and the bases of my dispute is HIPAA Privacy Rule and Federal Law. For more Information visit

From: Name                                                                                                                                                                                           Date:

Address                                                                                                                                                                                                  Account#: XXXXXXX

City, State, Zip code                                                                                                                                                                             Balance $: $$$$$

To:  Medical Collection Agency

1327 Highway 2 West, Suite 100

Kalispell, MT 59901

RE: Legal Dispute Department,

I recently received my credit report and this alleged debt account above that your company has furnished on my credit report I have no knowledge or documents that show that I ever contracted with your company.  How did your company get my information when HIPAA have Privacy Rules, federal law, which protect consumer’s private health information from misuse and being disclosure to collection agencies like yours?  It seems that your company is using deceptive tactics trying to force me into a claim which I have no knowledge of.  I am disputing this alleged debt because I need proof that this claim is enforceable which I know is not because I have no record of this alleged debt account.  The proof I am requesting are:

  1. Proof of a contract which I would need the original contract with my signature proving I signed a binding agreement with your company.  I also need this contract notarized so that I know the document is an original contract and not a fraudulent document.
  2. Proof of notification that proves that your company followed the proper procedures in furnishing this negative derogatory information on to my credit report.  According to the FDCPA, your company supposed to notify the debtor 30 days prior to furnishing derogatory information to the credit reporting agencies.  The proof I need is a signed signature certified mail card with my signature proving that you notified me personally 30 days before furnishing this derogatory alleged debt on to my credit report.

I need your company to cease and desist collections on this alleged account.  Your company must provide this proof of your companies claim within the allotted 30 days or default.  I am also requesting your company to contact the credit reporting agencies and have them remove this account from my credit file immediately.  If you don’t have this account removed I will be forced to contact the Attorney General and have him forward you this letter and another letter based on your company’s inability to provide proof of this alleged debt and how your company is using deceptive tactics to force a claim that is unenforceable.  I will also contact HHS, FTC, and the Better Business Bureau and state my dispute against your company.  I must say that I am really looking forward to an uneventful resolution to this matter.  Please be aware that this letter is time stamped by certified mail and that your company has 30 days to respond or default.




City, State, Zip code

To download this Sample click this link Sample Dispute for Medical

To download all the Sample letter you will need click and download each link below:

1st Sample Dispute for CB

2nd Sample Dispute charge off to CB

3rd Sample Dispute outdated info to CB

15dayRE Notice & RE Notice

Sample 1st Dispute to OCorCA

Sample 2nd Dispute for OCorCA

Sample Default Letter

Sample Dispute charge off to CB

Here is a Bonus 


The two secrets you need to know before calling any Non-Profit Credit Counseling Service OR Debt Consolidation Company!

You’ve probably seen those annoying debt relief commercials on television. We did some investigative work when it came to understanding just how these businesses ran and stumbled upon a few shocking things you need to know before calling! The first thing we noticed were catch phrases in their names, like “non-profit”, “relief” and “counseling”, but these companies are not strictly charitable organizations out to help the public. They do help some people get out of debt, but after reading this chapter 1 think you’ll agree: it’s a lot cheaper doing it yourself!


Here’s how most Debt Consolidation Companies work. First, they all seem to claim having a ‘special’ relationship with thousands of creditors, implying they can negotiate and reduce your debt better than you could yourself! The fact is, the only relationship they have with creditors involves a computer database and a (which sends out debt negotiation letters on your behalf). This is simply a marketing ploy to make it appear they can accomplish more than you could negotiating yourself. As I’ll explain later, with the right information, you can accomplish much more than any Debt Consolidation Company could ever dream of!


Debt Consolidation Companies typically ask for an “initial consultation” (aka sales pitch), where they obtain the names, and account numbers of your creditors, including the balances owed on your accounts. Now, they are in a position where they can formulate a plan for your debt free future, and tell you how many decades it will take to pay off your debt if you don’t use their service, and the benefits if you do. Basically, they give their pitch. They’re a business, and that’s fine.

However, then come the fees! Some companies want $200 per creditor, others have a “flat-rate” debt relief plan for only $80- $99.95 a month. Let’s just say you go for the flat rate plan for $99.95 a month, or about $1200 a year, and if you’re on a 5-year payment plan, we’re talking about $6000! Now, that’s a lot of money… but wait, it gets even worse! Debt Consolidation Companies can also receive “commissions” from YOUR creditors ranging between 10 to 15%, behind your back.

Let’s say you’re paying off $10,000 dollars in debt, and one of these “debt relief heroes” cuts your 23% interest rate accounts down to ZERO (the average they can actually do is about 7%). With NO INTEREST, you could pay $166 a month and be debt free in 5 years. If their back-end commission were just 10% that would be $16.60 a month, and over a 5-year period, that adds up to almost $1000 dollars. When you total the figures up, they’re charging you a total of $7,000 dollars doing something you can do yourself, and do with just a little time, a computer and some postage stamps!


What’s worse is that while many Debt Consolidation Companies give you the impression they’re working for you, they’re also working for the creditors, because that’s where a large chunk of their profits come from! Since they’re a monthly fee, as well as a commission from the creditors, it’s in their best interest to stretch your payment plan out as long as possible. While most of these organizations are probably ethical, the conflict of interest and amount of fees we’ve described here is enough‚ to make any consumer a bit uncomfortable. Wouldn’t you agree? But there’s more to the story… Yes, I’ve saved the WORST for last!


When Debt Consolidation Companies contact your creditors (through the postal service, just like you could) to reduce your interest and monthly payments, the most common way they accomplish this is to CLOSE your accounts. Now, let me ask you a question: If you’ve got 6 accounts, and even have late pays, and you CLOSE all 6 accounts, do you think your credit will be improved? Your credit score will probably go down. I can guarantee you one thing, when accounts are closed there will be a notation by them that you used debt consolidation! Sure, they may help you get out of debt and consolidate your payments into one lower payment, but what they’re not telling you is they are not negotiating the amount of the debt you owe, just the interest. This type of deception in our opinion, is scandalous. You can achieve better results negotiating directly with your creditors using the methods and techniques in this guide!


When a Debt Consolidation Company contacts your creditor, their approach is to re-negotiate the current contact. However, by using the Accord & Satisfaction (A&S) process, you’re offering a completely new contact. The old agreement, which you may be in default over, or have late-pays, will be extinguished and replaced with a new agreement. This is assuming the creditor accepts the terms of the A&S. With this approach, you can reduce the amount you owe by as much as 60%, lower or even freeze your interest rate; have the old accounts deleted from your file, and have the new accounts reported as either “CURRENT”, or if you’re settling them with a lump sum payment, “PAID AS AGREED”. And remember, don’t forget about the power of restrictive endorsements!


It’s our guess that Debt Consolidation Companies don’t use the A&S process because their current approach is much more profitable for their company. Again, we come back to the ‘conflict of interest’ issue between these companies. dipping into your pockets, and getting commissions from your creditors. We don’t know about you, but we wouldn’t trust any company that claims to be a ‘debt relief hero’, while at the same time lowering (or at-least not raising) your credit score for up to 5 years. Sounds like a raw deal to us, especially when they’re raking in thousands out of your pockets using such a straightforward process! Whatever approach you decide to use to restore your credit, or consolidate your debt, make sure you ask the following questions whenever dealing with Debt Consolidation Company:

Two “Unique Letters” you can use to PAY OFF all your bills for as little as .27 cents on the dollar! 


The simple fact is, credit repair doesn’t work all the time, for everyone. Sometimes the original creditor or collection agency won’t budge, and will even go to the extent of violating the Fair Credit Reporting Act just to keep your account in collections. After all, how many people are really going to go through 411 the trouble of suing a debt collector in court? Very few, indeed. Likewise, sometimes credit reporting agencies (CRA’s) will continue verifying an item even though you’ve provided good documentation.

Some of you may find yourself in a situation where you know the account is valid, but you’re just in a little ‘too far over your head’, and there’s just no way you can continue paying your monthly credit obligations and continue to keep a roof over your head. Whatever the case may be, fair and honest debt negotiation is a win-win situation for both parties. First, you have something they want, and that’s money. And they have something you want, and that’s a more favorable credit rating, an interest freeze on your account, or a reduction of the total amount owed.

The wonderful thing about debt negotiation, is you’re the one with the power! If you’re not paying your creditors anything now, any conversation you initiate with them involving how they can get their hands on your money will be of great interest to them. They‚ may try and threaten you with poor credit (which you probably already have) or a lawsuit to try and coerce you into paying them. They can also file a lawsuit (which can be extremely time consuming and expensive), and get a judgement against you. But, now they’re right back where they started, in the collection business!


Think about it for a moment. Your creditors don’t really care about you, or why you haven’t paid them. Why should they? Don’t waste their time or yours by tying to explain anything to them! All they care about is how much of your money they can rip out of your back pocket.

If you’re unable to pay them the entire amount owed, they will almost always be willing to negotiate a new arrangement with you, especially if you mention you may have to file bankruptcy. Most of the time, creditors will negotiate for 25 to 40 cents on the dollar, depending on the amount of time and energy you invest in negotiations. You’ve got to break them down and show them who’s boss. You’re going to tell them how it’s going to be! In other words, if they don’t agree to your terms, they aren’t going to get one dime!


First, if you’re about to negotiate with a collection agency, stop immediately. Negotiating with collection agencies can be hazardous to your credit. You may want to consider initiating the “Validation Process” against them so they’ll return your account back to the original creditor. The original creditor is usually the only party with the authority to create new terms.

There are two ways to start the negotiation process. One is by calling the creditor and playing tug-of-war over the phone, and the other is simply. initiating the process through the mail. In either case, you’re going to need to call the original creditor and get the name of the president, corporate executive officer, chief financial officer, debt-recovery department manager, or credit manager to address your negotiation letters.

When you call, simply explain what the is, but make sure you’re referred to someone who has the authority to negotiate, someone at the top!


It’s our opinion, from this point on, simply get off the phone and do your negotiations through the mail, using what’s known as the “Accord & Satisfaction” (A&S) process. The A&S process is offering a new contract. The ‘accord’ is the agreement between you and your creditor. The ‘satisfaction’ is the payment expressed in the ‘accord’, or new agreement. You’ll essentially be exchanging an old debt with terms that may reflect late-pays or a charge-off, with a new debt agreement with reduced principal, and better terms. It’s like starting from scratch again! Generally, when there’s a disagreement between you and a creditor as to the amount of a debt or the terms of a contact, you can offer to pay a specific amount in settlement of the debt under a new set of terms. The creditor can accept the offer, cash check, and consider the debt completely discharged, or paid monthly with a new set of terms activated upon final payment.


If you’ve paid in full, you can enjoy new terms on an agreement such as having the

negative item deleted, and a new item reported as a positive item on your credit file. The best status to negotiate for when you’ve finally satisfied the debt is “PAID FULL, AS AGREED”, with no past due payments and no additional comments. The second best is “PAID”, but the ones that hurt your credit rating are “PAID COLLECTION”, “PAID CHARGE-OFF”, and “SETTLED”. Under no circumstances should you settle for anything less than “PAID.”

If you’re making monthly payments, the creditor should agree to delete the old account and report the new one as a “CURRENT” account in return for your first payment. Some creditors may not report your new account as CURRENT until you’ve made three payments. That’s what negotiation is all about; finding out what two parties can agree on and making a settlement. Another alternative is to have the creditor report that you voluntarily closed the old account, which is called a consumer closure and will appear on your file as “CLOSED” with a new account showing as CURRENT.

Remember, you’re the one in charge here. They want your money! WARNING: Again, be very careful if you’re working with a collection agency. No matter what they say, rarely if ever, do they have the authority to make these kinds of arrangements. They’ll tell you anything to get your money, but you may end up with the FULL amount showing on your credit file with a status of “PAID COLLECTION”. This is not good, and will probably require a lawsuit to clear up!

Now, the creditor has a few choices in the A&S process: 1. Accept the new arrangement and get their money, or; 2. Don’t except it, and Continue to try and squeeze juice out of a dried apple, write the account off as uncollectible debt, or file a lawsuit in court!

If you’re A&S is successful, it will create a new contract and therefore prevent any legal action or negative reporting against you regarding the previous agreement. But, for an A&S to be legally binding and hold up in court, there must be a ‘meeting of the minds’. You, the debtor, have the burden of proof of showing that adequate notice was provided, or that a ‘meeting of the minds’ was reached.


Some credit repair programs may instruct you to write a letter with the terms you want, send it off with your check, and hope it slips through the cracks’ and is cashed. This is known as the ‘restrictive endorsement’ method, but without a ‘meeting of the minds’ there is no contract. (In just a few moments, we’ll teach you the proper and legal way to use this incredible method!). You, the debtor, must provide adequate notice for the A&S to be legally binding.

In the sample letters to-follow, you’re basically exchanging the old debt agreement with a new one, and erasing the old terms with updated new terms! Creditors prefer this process because, since the old agreement is replaced with a new one, they don’t have to lie about the status of the account. They can honestly say; the old account is GONE and the new account shows a status of “PAID AS AGREED”.




If you’re a little too uncomfortable negotiating over the telephone, you can always send A&S letter by mail to the appropriate contact and see how they respond. This approach can still yield the results you want without having to deal with any ‘hard-heads ‘ over the phone. However, you may also be ignored much of the time because of your demands may sound totally unreasonable. That’s why it’s important to discuss the terms the negotiation over the phone with someone who has the authority to make such decisions, because a “meeting of the minds” usually starts first through human interaction, not a piece of paper.

If you have absolutely zero tolerance for calling your creditors or they’re not responsive to your terms, you may want to try another little-known technique that can work like a speeding bullet! It’s called the “Restrictive Endorsement” technique! You serve notice on the creditor 15 days in advance that you’re going to be mailing them a “Restrictive Endorsement’ notice along with a payment attached. Turn to the next section to learn this technique!


Restrictive endorsements (RE’s) are another angle you can use through the “Accord & Satisfaction” (A&S) approach, if you want to avoid the lengthy process of negotiating the amount or fail to reach an agreement with one or more of your creditors. RE’s involve notifying your creditor that you’re going to send them an A&S agreement with a “Restrictive Endorsement” on your next payment, giving them 15 days to object. If they don ‘t object, you send your payment containing the ‘ ‘Restrictive Endorsement”, and if cashed, in many states this constitutes acceptance of your terms and a new contract.An example of how your payment could look ( the memo on the front of the check writing on the top should read Accord and Satisfaction, and the restricted endorsement on the back side of the check):


Remember that a “Restrictive Endorsement” or an “Accord & Satisfaction” agreement must be made in ‘good faith’ and both parties must agree to it. While this approach can be faster than the A&S negotiation process, we spoke of earlier, it must also be handled more delicately as one small mistake could ruin the entire procedure. But if you do it correctly, it becomes legally binding!

You can use a ”Restrictive Endorsement” for payment in full on account (as above), or for payment in return for a specific on the part of the creditor. This ‘action’ could be to return the account to a “CURRENT” status or remove any late pays. Keep in mind, some states allow creditors to mark through the restrictive endorsement and write, ‘Sander protest” or “without prejudice”, effectively voiding the A&S completely.

As far as we know (keep in mind, laws do change so be sure to check your state laws!), the states that WILL ALLOW creditors to void restrictive endorsements by marking through them are: Alabama, Delaware, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Missouri, New Hampshire, New York, Ohio, Rhode Island, South Carolina, and Wisconsin. Since some states allow restrictive endorsements and others are very strict about their usage, the solution is to simply notify the original creditor original creditor 15 days in advance that you’re sending an instrument of A&S, giving them the option of refusing or denying the A&S before it’s mailed, or simply when it arrives. If the creditor does not respond within 15 days, send your A&S letter with your first or final payment, and if they cash check containing the restrictive endorsement, most likely they’ve just accepted the new agreement and your new terms!

NOTE: Many credit card companies now write a provision into their contracts that restrictive endorsements must be sent to a special address, so check with the creditor as to the requirements you agreed to contractually.

Make sure you send all your paperwork

Certified Mail, Return Receipt Requested…

So, you can prove the creditor was given adequate notice but failed to object in writing…

And failed to reject the payment when it arrived.

The following are sample A&S letters you can use and modify for your own needs, depending on the circumstances at hand…

Click on the link here for Accord & Satisfaction Telephone & non Telephone Agreement and here for Restrictive Endorsement Letters

2 thoughts on ““FREE” Thoro Credit Repair Lessons

  1. Akilayh Jones Reply

    After reviewing all the information provided, I decided to take the time to work on my credit. The simple lessons provided allowed me to remove a lot of negative information off of my credit report. Now I am able to be confident in disputing negative account in hopes of raising my credit score and becoming one step closer to financial freedom!

    • Thoro FrankieTrillz Post authorReply

      Thank you Akilayh for your testimony to how simple these lessons can be to apply and how once you apply these lessons and see the derogatory accounts removed how your confidence goes up. I can say you are a fast learner and you are applying Thoro Credit Repair Lessons to improve your current credit conditions. I encourage you to keep at it until its done and know if you need my assistance I’m here for you. Continue to tell others how your negative derogatory accounts are melting off your report. Financial Freedom is within reach so keep your pace. 1Love4Life Peace

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